
Class. 



Book ■VV 4 7% 



Qui DC Book 



or THE 



WATKIN5 aim 

Near \\\c Village of WatKlns 
Head of Seneca Lake, Scfiuyjer Co., N. Y. 



AND ITS 



Romantic Surroundings 



COPYRIGHT BY 

W. C. ROBINSON 

1901 



Cbe Storp or m 6len 



Centuries before the first white 
man peered tremblingly into the 
shadowy abyss of the great Glen, it 
was known and held as sacred by the 
aboriginal lake dwellers in this sylvan 
region. It was the abode of the Great 
Spirit, whose voice thundered in the 
awful turmoil of the waters as the 
freshets of the melting snows tore 
through the chasm and the rounded 
boulders were to be heard churning 
in the deep wells which imprisoned 
them. As old as time itself, the Glen 
has been cut— a foot or so in a century 
— by the spring torrent and the sum 
mer rivulet, and upon its lofty g 
buttresses the student of Nature : 
read clearly the records of myriad ages whose early pages were 
scribed here when the world was young and " the stars sang togethv 
To see Watkins Glen is to quicken the dormant reverence for Nature : 
to stand in these roofless cathedrals is to worship before the altar of 
the great First Cause. It is well worth while to turn aside from the 
rush along the highways of pleasure and refresh the soul in this 
majestic scene. 

The returning soldiers of General John Sullivan's expedition to 
the land of the Senecas, sent to avenge the massacre of Wyoming 
brought back to the settlements marvelous tales of not only these 
beautiful lakes deep hidden in the ravaged country of the Iroquois, 




Swiss Cottage and Dining Hall 



but of this great caiion, which many had seen as they pursued and 
lost the fleeing savages far into its sanctuary. 

Venturous travelers came over toilsome trails in later days to see 
for themselves this vaunted wonder. Scholars, familiar with noted 
scenes in other lands, found here something to stir their jaded pens. 
Lives were staked and lost in the effort to penetrate its deeper 
recesses. 

But nearly a century passed after the Indian owners had parted 
with their native soil, before a systematic effort was made to extend 
pathways and build stairways through the Glen. Almost imme- 
diately following this work, in the season of 1863, Watkins Glen took 
its place among the natural marvels of America, and, although hun- 
dreds of resorts have since been created and the then unknown won- 
derlands of the Rockies and the Pacific slope are familiar to every 
tourist, Watkins Glen has held its popular place as an objective point 
in the holiday tour. At the beginning of the new century it is still 
classed with Niagara Falls in the estimation of the people. Twenty- 
five years ago, a single line of railroad gave access to the pretty 
village of Watkins. The steamboats upon the lake afforded the only 
alternative means of reaching the place. Now three great railway 
systems touch the head of Seneca Lake, an electric line of cars con- 
nects at Elmira with a fourth, and the boats upon the lake are run 
with a full appreciation of the increasing requirements of summer 
travel in this direction. 

The hospitable Glen Mountain House, located by an inspiration 
where it commands a superb view of both the lake and the Glen, has 
changed but little, save in improvement and extension to meet later 
needs, since it was first perched here upon the mountain. 

Under the present management much has been done to ensure the 
comfort, safety and pleasure of all visitors passing through the glen, 
while the famous Glen Mountain House, under the same ownership 
and conducted in connection with the glen, has been equally 
improved in furnishing, cuisine and many other details. Offering to 
all tourists, with its free transit to and from trains and boats, and its 
free admission of guests of one or more days to the Glen and Hope 
Art Gallery, during their stay, the only desirable stopping place at 
Watkins. 




THE GLEN MOUNTAIN HOUSE. BRIDGE AND SWISS COTTAGE 
FROM THE GLEN 



General Description 



CWENTY-FIVE years ago but little was known of this pictur- 
esque and interesting Summer resort beyond the confines of 
the county in which it is located. To-day it is renowned 
the world over for its wonderful scenery ; and differing in 
all its characteristics from any other remarkable locality 
of natural interest, it has as distinct an individuality as the Falls of 
Niagara or the Mammoth Cave. 

It consists properly of a number of glens or sections rising one 
above another, forming a series of rocky arcades, galleries and grot- 
toes, subterranean at times, and again widening out into vast amphi- 
theatres, presenting a beautiful combination picture of glen, mountain, 
lake and valley, now famous for containing the "Great Natural 
Wonder," which is located near the head of Seneca Lake, in the 
outskirts of the village of Watkins, in Schuyler Co., N. Y. 

It comprises a superficial area of nearly five hundred acres; its 
general course is east and west; its tortuous length extends over three 
miles, and its total ascent to the summit of the mountain above is 
eight hundred feet. 

It forms the channel for a limpid stream which, bubbling out 
from mountain springs, threads its sinuous way through gorge and 
dell; now tumbling madly from lofty heights into the depths of a 
foam-crested whirlpool ; now breaking in shimmering cascades above 
some pellucid pool shaded by moss grown rocks, then winding like 
a silver thread through the rank leafage of some narrow vale, it 
flashes in the sunlight and winds quietly across the level valley, as 
though tired from its angry and tortuous passage through the Glen, 
it was now resting, idly reflecting the sunbeams before taking its 
final submergence in the cool depths of "Seneca Lake," half a mile 
beyond . 

Watkins Glen is located on the line of the Lehigh Valley, North- 
ern Central, and the Pennsylvania Division of the New York Central 



R. R. ; near the head of Seneca Lake west of and partly within the 
village of Watkins, in Schuyler County, New York. The main line 
of the Lehigh Valley Railway passes along the ridge east of the village 
and tourists for the Glen leave the train at Burdett. The N. C. Rail- 
way connects at Elmira (20 miles) with the N. Y., L. Erie and West- 
ern; Lehigh Valley; D. L. and W.; and Elmira, Cortland and North- 
ern Ry. Co.'s lines; and at Canandaigua with the N. Y. Central and 
Hudson River Railroad; while the New York Central crossing the Glen 
at its most westerly terminus, connects with the Erie and D., L. and 
W. R. R.'s at Corning. From Geneva (40 miles) the Glen is also 
reached by a line of palatial steamers over Seneca Lake, the scenery 
on which is equal to anything on the continent. The N. Y. C. and 
Hud. River R. R. runs elegant Wagner Palace Drawing-room and 
Sleeping cars through from New York to Lyons, Geneva and Canan- 
daigua, making direct connections with trains for Watkins and with 
steamers on Seneca Lake. It will be seen, therefore, that Watkins 
Glen is accessible from all directions. 

The following detailed description of a tour of the Glen is here- 
with presented in such a manner that the visitor may find it a material 
guide in pointing out many things which might escape notice. 

Passing up Franklin Street from the railroad station or steamboat 
landing, a few minutes' walk brings us to the entrance and, turning 
from the street, we enter the defile between the guarding hills, and the 
first object that attracts our attention as we commence our pilgrimage 
is a vast, rocky 

ENTRANCE AMPHITHEATRE, 

the walls of which rise on either side nearly two hundred feet above 
our heads. Ahead of us the walls almost meet, and farther passage 
seems barred, with the exception of a narrow rift in the rocks, as if 
they had, by some mighty power, been torn asunder. Here stood an 
old building that served for both saw and grist mill, before the romantic 
genius of an " Ells " had developed the many attractions hidden 
beyond. 

Before proceeding, however, we pass beneath and around the 
base of the overhanging rocks, where we obtain a fine view of one 
of the wildest scenes of the Glen — called the 

ENTRANCE CASCADE, 



which is a narrow thread of water, shooting out from an angle in the 
rocks eighty feet above, and dashing into a dark, cavernous pool of 
unknown depth below. At our feet slumbers the Trout Pool, broad, 
deep, clear and irregular in form, so named from the immense number 
of the finny tribe which come up from the lake during high water 
in the spring and early summer. 

We now ascend a strong and secure staircase and find ourselves 
in what is called 

GLEN ALPHA. 

As we continue, we observe the channel makes a sharp turn to 
the left, which accounts for the apparent obstruction. At the head 
of the staircase is a little bridge spanning the chasm, known as 

SENTRY BRIDGE, 

where we pause a few moments to rest, and take a look through the 
amphitheatre we have just left, and down through the jagged edges of 
rock to the deep blue basin, broken into circling ripples by the falling 
column of water, out across the smiling valley to the green hills 
beyond. 

Here, for the first time, the delightful sensation produced by the 
invigorating and inspiring atmosphere, as it draws down through the 
Glen, steals over us. Its shadowy recesses are natural reservoirs of 
eternal coolness, and even in the severity of dog-days furnish a most 
grateful retreat from the heat of the outer world. The air is cool, fresh 
and bracing, laden with sweet odors, the fragrance of many flowers. 

Looking upward from the point where we now stand, what a sight 
bursts upon us ! Towering and irregular cliffs of dark rock, angular 
and sullen, rise one above another till they appear to meet in the 
clouds, and seem to forbid approach ! 

At numerous places in the Glen we pause, and wonder how it is 
possible to go much farther, as the way appears impassible, and the 
distance so inaccessible; but as we advance the path always opens, and 
gives far more interest to the ascent than though we could clearly 
mark our way before us. 

Crossing Sentry Bridge, we ascend a short flight of steps on the 
south side, and before us lies a pathway cut in the solid rock, leading 
along under the overhanging cliffs, a few feet above the stream. We 
are now fairly in 

STILLWATER GORGE, 



\ 







ENTRANCE STAIRCASE 



where the various hues and tints of the rock, the eccentric combina- 
tion of curves and angles, seem as if nature had endeavored to see 
what wildly grotesque and yet beautiful images she could produce. 
We now catch a glimpse of the second cascade, called 

MINNEHAHA, 

which is beautiful, irregular, and yet full of grace. The water, broken 
several times in its fall, is dashed into foam and spray which forms a 
brilliant contrast to the dark, rocky surroundings. 

Following the path we come to a rustic seat, from which a charming 
view is obtained in bDth directions. Looking up from this point, the 
view is called 

CAVERN GORGE, 

and forwildness and grandeur is unsurpassed by any in the Glen. 

And here it would be well to advise visitors not to press on too 
eagerly, but to proceed deliberately, and frequently look back, as in 
many cases the views we have passed are the finest. 

Looking forward at the narrow gorge we are about entering, we 
see a staircase above us, and beyond that still another, almost perpen- 
dicular in its position, and of great height. This portion of the Glen 
is called 

THE LABYRINTH, 

and the channel of the stream here is very narrow. 

A little farther under the shelving cliffs of rock, and we are at the 
foot of the Long Staircase referred to, which leads to the top of the 
north cliff. Here we are in a strangely wild and interesting place. 
If we pass by a little way, before ascending the Staircase, we find our- 
selves in a cavern, almost circular in form, dark and damp, called the 
Grotto, directly behind the sheet of water. No one should fail to visit 
this weird chamber. Here the 

CAVERN CASCADE 

leaps from the rocks above, down sixty feet, in a single column, not 
altogether unlike the entrance Cascade, but much grander. The 
rocky walls of the Grotto reverberate the echoes of the falling water 
until the sound is fairly deafening, and the light of the "outer world" 
gleaming through the transparent stream in front of you, gives it the 
appearance of molten silver. Returning to the staircase, the down- 

lo 


















L.-'^^B 


W 



MIN-NE-HA-HA 



ward view from the foot of which is called Whirlwind Gorge, we 
ascend nearly one hundred feet, and are glad to avail ourselves of the 
rustic seat at the top. The view had from the head of the staircase, 
is called 

THE VISTA, 

and the effect is very fine. After emerging from the dark chasm, we 
see before us silvery cascades, quiet pools and moss- garnished walls, 
overarched by stately forest trees and thick shrubbery, with a broad 
light flooding the distance ; and far above through the emerald foliage, 
like a web of gossamer, is seen the beautiful Iron Bridge spanning 
the Glen. 

We are forcibly impressed with the beauty of the foliage, which 
appears all the brighter as we emerge from the dark recesses of the 
Glen. It is a singular fact, that nowhere upon the American Con- 
tinent can such a range of vegetation be found within such narrow 
limits. On the northern slopes in sheltered nooks protected from the 
winds, and in a great measure from frost and snow, exposed to the 
warm rays of the sun, the vegetation is almost tropical. Especially 
among the lower orders, plants are here found that are indigenous to 
Tennessee and the Carolinas. The fern family is largely represented, 
and some of the most beautiful specimens are found. Many of the 
varieties attain a degree of luxuriance that astonishes the student 
familiar with them. Exposed to the keen north winds, high up on the 
southern clifts, plants are found that belong far to the north. Stunted 
firs, mosses and lichens, that are rarely seen south of the Hudson's 
Bay country, are here represented. After a refreshing rest we again 
start upon our journey, and bearing gently to the left, by a "new" 
pathway, strong and elegant stairway broken by platforms, recently 
erected, along the verge of the gorge, where the wildness of the 
scenery is truly impressive, we find ourselves standing gazing into 
what was formerly known as 

"GLEN OBSCURA," 

but which, by the great improvements above referred to, is as accessi- 
ble as any portion of the Glen. By a short flight of steps from this 
platform we come upDu the veranda of the building known as the 

"SWISS COTTAGE," 

(only needing the stones upon the roof to make it an exact copy of 
the "Chalets" found among the mountains, lakes, and glens of 




CAVERN "CASCADE 



Switzerland) erected upon the site originally occupied by the "Ever- 
green" before mentioned, and now forming a portion of the Glen 
Mountain House. It is perched on a sort of natural shelf, loo feet 
above the level of the stream, and 200 feet above the level of Glen 
Alpha, overlooking The Vista, and nestling among the trees and 
shrubbery. When we reflect upon the labor attendant upon getting 
the timbers and lumber used in the construction of buildings, stair- 
cases and bridges to the present position — it being impossible to use 
horses for the purpose — and that thousands of feet of the pathways, 
and many of the stairs, are cut in the solid rock, and that hundreds of 
obstructions and threatening masses of stone had to be removed, we 
see that patience and indefatigable perseverance have surmounted all 
difficulties. 

From the veranda of the Swiss Cottage is had a fine view of the 
main building known as the Glen Mountain House, the only hotel 
connected with the Glen. It is very romantically located, well fur- 
nished and provided with all the modern comforts and conveniences 
found in any first-class hotel. All visitors to the Glen are welcomed 
to inspect its spacious apartments, rest upon its delightfully cool 
piazzas, or indulge in any of the amusements provided on the grounds 
or in the ••Amusement Hali.." 

From the promenades on the verandas of the Swiss Cottage and 
the bridge across the Glen, we have several fine views of the gorge, 
the, winding stream and the cascades above and below. 

A few rods above the Mountain House the late Capt, Jas. Hope, 
late of 82 Fifth Avenue, New York, erected an 

ART GALLERY 

which contains a superb collection of more than one hundred of his 
finest and most celebrated paintings. Here can be seen some of the 
leading beauties in Watkins Glen and its surroundings; also views in 
New England, Virginia, California, Europe, etc., etc., chief among 
which are his celebrated pictures of 

RAINBOW FALLS 

in Watkins Glen, and his great historical paintings of the 

ARMY OF THE POTOMAC, AND BLOODY LANE 

14 




RAINBOW FALLS AND TRIPLE CASCADE 



Visitors can spend many a pleasant hour here, and no one should fail 
to see this splendid collection. Our way now lies through the woods 
by a shaded path, and is called 

SYLVAN GORGE, 

which was until recently inaccessible, and is one of the wildest, most 
beautiful and interesting portions of the Glen. There are two paths, 
and to enjoy it fully one should go by one and return by th.e other. 
Continuing, we take the Sylvan Path, turning abruptly to the left 
above the Art Gallery, and follow the path winding down through the 
stately forest. We pause on Forest Cliff to enjoy the magnificent 
view down The Vista. From beneath the green sylvan arches we 
look down into the depths, with picturesque tree-clad cliffs on either 
hand. To the left, perched on a jutting crag, more than a hundred 
feet above the bed of the stream, we catch a glimpse of Hope's Art 
Gallery, and rustic arbor, mid their emerald surroundings; while 
beyond the tasteful structures the iron bridge spans the chasm, and 
the view finally dies away in the shadows of Whirlwind Gorge. 
Turning, we pursue our course, pausing oft to admire the mossy 
slopes that crown the chasm, and to gaze down upon Diamond Fall 
and all the wild surroundings of forest, rock and stream. 

Our walk through the woods gradually descends until we are 
nearly on a level with the stream; and here, in the rocks in all direc- 
tions, are found the remains of the same kind of pools that are now 
seen in the bed of the stream. A word on the formation of these 
peculiar pools may not prove uninteresting to those who are not fami- 
liar with them. In the spring, when the stream is ver^ high and the 
ice breaking up, large quantities of rock, boulders and gravel are car- 
ried down by the tremendous power of the water; and sometimes 
these boulders lodge in a natural seam in the rock, or in a curve 
in the bed of the stream, and are there whirled and rolled around, 
until, aided by the gravel that collects, they gradually grind out these 
basins or pools in the softer rock beneath. This process, going on for 
years, has worn some of them to an immense size and depth. In 
some instances the boulders have been forced from their resting places 
at the bottom of the pool, and carried away; but in many instances, 
especially in the uppsr glens, they are still to be seen in the basins 
they have carved. The remains of these basins are, in many places, 
to be seen now, where the channel has deepened or changed and left them. 

i6 




SYLVAN GORGE 



Proceeding on our journey we see a succession of little rapids 
and cascades leaping into Sylvan Gorge, of which this is the upper 
termination, called the 

SYLVAN RAPIDS, 
and they glide and dance very beautifully through their irregular rocky 
channel. At the head of the Sylvan Rapids a rustic bridge spans the 
stream, from which as we cross to the south side, we have a delight- 
ful bird's eye view down through Sylvan Gorge, with its many wind- 
ings and mysterious recesses. Below the bridge is the " Bath Tub, " 
which will be readily recognized by its perfect resemblance to that 
necessary article. 

lyooking upward we find ourselves in 

GLEN CATHEDRAL, 

and here obtain the best general view of this masterpiece of Nature's 
handiwork. All attempt at description fails, and words are inadequate 
to paint a picture that would do this subject justice, or convey to the 
mind an idea of its grandeur. The Cathedral is an immense oblong 
amphitheatre, nearly an eighth of a mile in length. Here the Glen is 
wider than at any other point; the rocky walls tower to a great height 
— over three hundred feet — and are richly tapestried with mosses and 
clinging vines, and crowned with lofcy pines and other evergreen 
trees. The floor is composed of a smooth and even surface of rock; 
the vaulted arch of the sky forms the dome. In the upper end the 

CENTRAL CASCADE 

forms the Choir, and, as it dashes from rock to rock, sings continual 
hymns of praise to the Infinite Power that created this mighty temple. 
Alluding to the peculiar feelings inspired by this stupendous work of 
Nature, a friend who once visited it said: " I have often reflected 
upDU the insignificance of man, but never so fully realized what a 
mere atom I was in this incomprehensible universe, as when standing 
in this vast Cathedral and looking up its towering walls." 

Recrossing the stream we continue along the north bank, in the 
shade of immensely tall forest trees; pausing midway for another look 
at the amber waters that spread over the level floor, and at Pulpit Rock 
that rears its stately head above its fellows. 

Situated near the upper end of the Cathedral is a large and beauti- 
ful pool, called the 

BAPTISMAL FONT. 

i8 




THE CATHEDRAL 



This is one of the most remarkable of these natural basins, 
singular for its regularity and the surpassing beauty of its form, and 
we are astonished, more than ever before, by the wonderful clearness 
and purity of the water, which, as the sun strikes into it sparkles 
until it is fairly radiant. The smallest objects on the bottom are 
clearly discernible in pools where the water is ten or fifteen feet deep, 
while its refracting and distorting powers are very great. We now 
ascend the 

GRAND STAIRCASE, 

about one hundred and seventy feet in height. Passing along on the 
cliff a few rods, we come to a short flight of stairs leading down to the 

VERANDA, 

descending which we obtain one of the finest views of the Central 
Cascade at our feet. This fall of about sixty feet is very beautiful, 
angular and irregular, yet symmetrical; while far above, projecting 
through the trees, is seen Pulpit Rock. Reascending we find our- 
selves in the 

GLEN OF THE POOLS, 

so named from the number of rock basins it contains. Pursuing the 
path on the north bank a short distance to a point directly over the 
Central Cascade, and looking back down through Glen Cathedral, we 
have the 

POET'S DREAM, 

a truly magnificent scene. We come now to another rustic bridge, 
below which is the Mermaid's Pool, and looking up we have what has 
been appropriately termed, the 

MATCHLESS SCENE, 
which view seems to combine within itself all the manifold beauties 
of the Glen. Broken and angular in its formation, rock and water, 
cascades and deep pools, winding channels and seething rapids, foliage 
and sky, all combine in a chaotic intermingling, yet form a harmon- 
ious and picturesque whole. As w^e proceed we are never tired of 
admiring the extreme beauty of the water; and the sunlight shimmer- 
ing down through the foliage strikes into the pools, waking their 
crystal depths into life ; while new phases of magical beauty surprise 
us at every step, like the ever-varying changes in a kaleidoscope. 

Leaving this point we follow the path on the south bank, through 
this section of the Glen, employing our time in examining the curious 

20 




THE POOLS 



structure of the pools, one of which especially will be noticed, called 
the Horse Shoe. 

We now come to a little staircase on the south bank, by which 
we ascend to a more elevated path ; but before we do, we pass by it 
and a little further up the Glen, to obtain a fine view of the 

TRIPLE CASCADE AND RAINBOW FALLS. 

The Triple Cascade is deemed by many to be the finest in the 
Glen. As its name indicates, it is composed of three portions, one 
above another, each different in form from the others, and forming a 
beautiful combination. Directly opposite the Triple Cascade on the 
south side, a little brook leaps over the brow of a great cliff nearly 
four hundred feet high down into the Glen, trickling over the irregu- 
lar surface of the rock until it reaches a point thirty feet above the 
foot-path, where it falls over a projecting shelf, the edge of which is 
curved outward in a crescent form. The water does not descend in a 
smooth sheet, but in a myriad of tiny threads and drops, forming a 
sparkling crystal veil, behind which our course leads. This novel 
cascade is known as Rainbow Falls. Beyond and above the Triple 
Cascade, spanning a narrow pass in the gorge, we see the Platform 
Staircase, while far above our heads on the north bank. Castle Cliff is 
seen through the trees. This section of the Glen of the Pools is 
called the Giant's Gorge. We return to the little staircase before 
mentioned, and ascend to the elevated pathway, taking in new views 
of the Triple Cascade at every step, and come to the 

RAINBOW FALL, 

behind which we pass. The space between the fall and the cliff is 
narrow, but sufiiciently wide to allow free passage. While standing 
behind the fall and looking out through the misty curtain, the novelty 
of the position and the peculiar brilliancy that the radiant drops of 
falling water impart to everything viewed through them, fill us with 
wonder, and is beautiful beyond description. In the afternoon, from 
June to September, when fair weather prevails, the rays of the sun fall 
into the gorge, and the enraptured visitor, in looking through the veil, 
beholds two most beautiful rainbows, a primary and secondary; a 
sight that, once enjoyed, can never be forgotten. 

We take a backward glance at Glen of the Pools and Matchless 
Scene, pass the Triple Cascade, and under overhanging rocks come 
to a staircase leading to an inclined platform, called 




RAINBOW FALLS AND TRIPLE CASCADE IN WINTER 



PLATFORM STAIRCASE. 

Here are seats which we find very welcome after our climb, and 
where we obtain a fine retrospective view of the Glen of the Pools 
with its ragged gorges, and a more defined view of the Rainbow Fall, 
showing its course before taking its final leap, while below us lies 
Diana's Bath, a clear, circular pool, nearly twenty feet deep. We are 
now to pass through 

SHADOW GORGE, 

in which portion of the Glen some of the most severe labor was per- 
formed, but its final accomplishment was a high compliment to the 
engineering skill of those who had it in charge. We leave the plat- 
form, ascend to follow the path along the south cliflf, where it is nar- 
row and cut in the solid, rocky face of the clift. It winds in and out, 
following the curves of the gorge, high above the water. We now 
see how appropriately this has been named the Shadow Gorge. The 
trees on the cliffs above are very high, and in many places almost 
meet overhead, and as the light strikes down through them their sha- 
dows are reproduced in the pools below, forming a combination of 
beautiful lights and shadows that surpass description. Here the 
stream seems a succession of basins connected by rapids and little 
falls, while ahead of us is another rustic bridge spanning the stream, 
and a little beyond it is the 

EMERALD POOL, 

one of the most beautiful of the basins; very regular in form, bottom 
covered with gravel, and water of great purity and brilliance. I^ook- 
ing up the Glen, our journey seems about to come to a sudden termi- 
nation, shut off by a wall as regular as if composed of solid masonry, 
but as we cross the bridge and follow the pathway, we see on approach- 
ing that the Glen makes a sudden turn to the right, around this 

FROWNING CLIFF 

that appeared to obstruct our further progress. At this place the 
seams in the rock intersect each other at right angles, giving to the 
whole the effect of masonry. The corner formed by this cliff on the 
south side, conveys the idea of the work of human hands, and is 
named the 

PILLAR OF BEAUTY. 

24 




THE POOLS IN WINTER 



Directly at the foot of this cliff is another large and very deep 
pool, the water in which is from twelve to fifteen feet deep, and as 
clear as crystal; and as it passes under the sharp angle of the cliff, it 
mirrors in its pellucid depths an inverted picture of the frowning 
rocks and graceful foliage above. The mosses and ferns are here very 
tine. These cliffs mark the entrance to the section called 

GLEN ARCADIA, 

and it well deserves the name, for a more perfect Elysium cannot be 
imagined. The scene before us has been called 

THE ARTIST'S DREAM, 

where all the beauties of the other glens, silver cascades and crystal 
pools, light and shadow, sharp angles and graceful curves, foliage, sky 
and rock, mingle and produce a picture that more resembles an ecstatic 
dream than anything that can elsewhere be found. The rocks do not 
here tower to such immense height, nor is the scenery so sublime as 
in some of the sections of the glens through which we have passed, 
but what is lost in grandeur is more than atoned for in the wild 
beauty of the scene. 

Our path now lies along the north cliff", on the rocky shelf some 
distance above the stream, where the water trickles from above, and 
runs down over the rocks in little streams. The gorge below us is 
known as the 

NARROW PASS, 

and is full of interest, as the walls tower high on either side, and 
approach near together. After rounding another sharp curve, we are 
once more obliged to cross the stream by means of a bridge, and pro- 
ceed along the south side, through the Narrow Pass, under shelving 
rocks, that extend far out over our heads. Passing around an angle, 
we come in sight of 

PLUTO FALL, 

on which the rays of the sun never shine. It appears like a subter- 
ranean gallery, for the air is damp and cold, and the dashing and 
rumbling of the Fall, as it echoes through the pass, adds to the gloomy 
sublimity of the spot. As we draw near we ascend a short staircase 
crossing over the fall where we obtain a fine view of it, which is of 
singular beauty, and essentially different in form from any we have 
yet seen, as it falls into a dark, deep basin, and extends about thirty 

26 




ARTIST'S DREAM 



feet under the rock on the edge of the stream. We climb around the 
falls, and stop to take a farewell look at the Narrow Pass, or, as it is 
called when viewed from this point backward, the Spiral Gorge. 

Our course now lies along the north side of the head of Glen 
Arcadia, and the way is clear, though "wondrous crooked," before 
us. The rapids here are the most beautiful in all the Glen. The 
channel is tortuous, and as in the Glen of the Pools, consists of a 
succession of curiously-carved basins connected by narrow rapids and 
cascades. The largest of these basins is called the 

POOL OF THE NYMPHS. 

Passing under the shelving rocks, we finally arrive at the head ot 
the section, formed by the Arcadian Fall. This is a beautiful cascade, 
falling into a kind of natural grotto; and at its foot is a beautiful 
basin. Near the head of this section a staircase leads to the north 
cliff, and a few rods of pathway bring us to another rustic bridge, 
thrown across the chasm directly above or over Arcadian Fall, for the 
purpose of giving visitors a fine rear view of Glen Arcadia, which, 
viewed from this romantic spot, is called 

ELFIN GORGE, 

and is a scene of rare and enchanting beauty. This bridge is the 
dividing line between Glen Arcadia and 

GLEN FACILITY, 

the latter so called because of the comparative ease with which it may 
be explored, except in times of high water. The most important of 
the great natural beauties of the Glen terminate here, but many 
visitors go a short distance beyond, to see the new magnificent iron 
bridge of the Syracuse, Geneva & Corning Railway Co., which spans 
the Glen at a height of 165 feet above the water, and well worth a 
visit. (Illustration p. 40.) We have passed through two and a-half 
miles; are six hundred feet above our starting point, and being 
satisfied with an endless change and variety of scenery, enter 

GLEN HORICON, 

half a mile above Elfin Gorge, and beyond the railroad bridge above 
mentioned, which consists of a large basin or amphitheatre, contain- 
ing some twelve or fifteen acres with steep wooded banks, several 
hundred feet high, broken into curves and promontories, the lower 

28 




PLUTO FALLS 



level of which is a barren "pathway of the floods," and the whole a 
picture of commingled grandeur and solitude. Just beyond is a 
winding, rocky gorge, terminating in a vast area called 

GLEN ELYSIUM, 

because of its natural beauties of water, lawn and grove, and its 
susceptibility of being made one of the most attractive and delightful 
pleasure grounds imaginable. It is nearly a half mile long, and one- 
fourth of a mile wide, containing within its lofty, sloping banks, 
nearly fifty acres, filled with cozy rural retreats, carpeted with grasses 
and mosses, overlooked by giant trees, and graced and adorned with 
a wondrous variety of foliage. 

After leaving Glen Elysium, we come to Omega Falls — the last — 
and beyond this fall, which is one of the most complicated and 
beautiful in the series, 

GLEN OMEGA 

stretches westward for half a mile or more, till it opens out in the 
"hill country," like a great fan; and the Glen comes to an end more 
than three miles from its beginning at the entrance of Glen Alpha. 

After a quiet rest, we start on our return, taking it leisurely, and 
stopping frequently to admire the numberless beauties that escaped us 
on our ascent. And, we may here say, that the Glen is so extensive, 
and the beauties so varied that one may make many visits, and yet 
each time find new features that he had not hitherto observed. Some- 
times a difference of a few feet in a position will materially alter the 
outline of a picture. It is frequently the case that the visitor more 
fully realizes and appreciates the extent, sublimity and grandeur of 
the Glen, after he has twice accomplished its ascent. We stop a few 
minutes to look with wonder down into the grand old Cathedral, and 
after descending the staircase, passing through the Cathedral, and 
retracing the winding path through the woods, we finally find our- 
selves again at the Swiss Chalet. It is a most welcome spot, and its 
refreshments are very acceptable. Here can be obtained the best 
selection of Stereoscopic Views, of Watkins and Havana Glens, by 
eminent artists, which are faithful copies of the most striking points 
of interest, and enable the tourist, on returning home, to keep in vivid 
remembrance the many pleasant associations connected with his visit. 
Here visitors can find many little souvenirs to take with them to the 
eager, expecting ones at home, and they are advised to avail them- 

30 




POOL OP THE NYMPHS 



selves of the opportunity of securing some memento of Watkins Glen. 
Crossing to the south side under cover of the Iron Suspension Bridge 
(illustration p. i) we come to the Glen Mountain House again. 

We notice near the south end of the bridge, a sign-board on 
which we read 

"TO THE SUMMIT." 

Our wonder is excited, and not wishing to miss any of the beau- 
tiful surroundings of this wonderful place, thitherward we bend our 
steps; and by a winding and continually ascending path passing 
through a beautiful wood, we arrive at 

THE SUMMIT, 

which well deserves the name, as it is the highest point in the 
vicinity, and commands a fine view of the lake and surrounding 
country for nearly thirty miles. Another path brings us back by a 
nearer route to the Glen Mountain House, when, if not too wearied, 
we continue our enjoyable explorations, but not by the path we came; 
because another is recommended as promising fresh beauties. 

Instead of returning by the Long Staircase, through the Glen, 
from the Swiss Cottage we take the path that bears to the left, along 
the slope of the hill, called Cliff Avenue, or one bearing to the north, 
directly behind the Swiss Cottage, called "To the Observatory." 
The former leads us through beautifal groves, and affords us occa- 
sional glimpses into the dizzy depths of Glen Alpha. The roar of 
the cascades, and the cool vapors arising from them, reach us even at 
this height. The latter enables us to climb to the summit of 

TABLE MOUNTAIN, 

as it is called, where we sit down to rest beneath the stunted ever- 
greens that grow upon the brow of the mountain, at the little "Obser- 
vatory Building," and gaze with mingled delight and amazement at 
the scene before us. For miles the valley lies spread out like a map 
at our feet, forming a perfect picture, and certainly one of the most 
magnificent and soul-entrancing scenes that we ever beheld, and 
which leaves a lasting impression on every beholder. Directly below 
us lies the village of Watkins, with its shaded avenues, its beautiful 
churches, public buildings, &c., while at the wharf lies several steamers 
and a variety of small craft, for Seneca Lake has quite an extensive 
and increasing commerce. 

32 




WATKINS GLEN VIADUCT 



We regret very much to leave our elevated position and descend 
to the lower world, but after a refreshing- rest from our delightful 
rambles and reviewing the truly splendid panoramic scene below us, 
and gaining new strength from the pure breezes that sweep the lake, 
we return to our comfortable quarters at the Glen Mountain House, to 
rest, and write to our friends to come and do likewise. 

There are a number of delightful drives in the neighborhood of 
Watkins Glen, also excursions upon the lake, that offer tempting 
inducements. One of the drives leads from Watkins Glen to Havana, 
and still further up the valley. It lies along the level plain on the 
west side of the valley, under precipitous hills and frowning cliffs on 
the one side, and the beautiful valley, with its border of hills on the 
other. The road is hard and smooth, and margined with trees and 
shrubbery. At one point, near Havana, a little brook falls about one 
hundred feet over the edge of the cliff, called Aunt Sarah's Fall (after 
an old Indian woman who formerly lived there), making a very fine 
cascade. There is a little niche in the face of the rock, near the verge 
of the fall, in which, an ancient legend says, great treasures were 
hidden. This whole district, lying around the lake, was once the 
hunting-grounds of the Seneca Indians. In accordance with the 
manifest destiny of the race to which they belonged, they have all 
passed away, leaving naught behind them save their mouldering 
bones (many of which, with their rude implements of war, clubs, 
tomahawks, scalping-knives, beads, ancient French coins, Jesuitical 
crosses, little brass camp-kettles, arrow-heads, &c., are annually ex- 
humed on both sides of the Glen Creek, a short distance east of the 
entrance to the amphitheatre), and their strange and poetic legends, 
preserved and handed down to the present. Almost every spot has 
some historical interest, and with very many of the localities are 
associated some of those wild imaginative tales of the wars, loves or 
wrongs of that race which is fast becoming extinct. These legends 
clothe their scenes with a deep interest. 

Continuing about one and a-half miles beyond the pretty little 
village of Havana, eastward is Havana Glen, not so extensive as 
Watkins, but very interesting and well deserving a visit, as it pos- 
sesses many curious and remarkable attractions. This place may 
now be conveniently reached upon the new electric car line which 
connects Watkins with the thriving city of Elmira. Another equally 



34 



beautiful and interesting drive, across by the head of Seneca lyake 
and its eastern shore, is to Hector Falls, where a fine body of water is 
precipitated, by foaming torrents, cascades and rapids, from a height 
of nearly four hundred feet into the valley, whence it rushes off to 
rest in the mighty depths of the lake. 

Omnibuses and easy-riding carriages, with careful and intelligent 
drivers, can always be obtained at the Glen Mountain House, at rates 
so reasonable as to induce all who have the time to avail themselves 
of the opportunity to see it. 

And we would respectfully, but urgently, recommend a trip over 
Seneca Lake, from Watkins to Geneva and return, in one of the 
S. L. S. Navigation Co.'s palatial steamers. The ofificers are very 
polite, spare no pains to interest their passengers, make them com- 
fortable, and render their voyage pleasant. 

The scenery along the shores of this beautiful body of water vies 
with any found in this country. To the north, the lake stretches 
away as far as the eye can reach, with the sky and clouds mirrored 
upon its bright blue surface; the hills sweep back from the lake in 
graceful undulations, the picturesque little hamlets and villages 
clinging to their sides, and nestling in the valleys; while back from 
the water still further, miles of well-tilled farms meet the view; and 
on the rising slopes many flourishing vineyards appear, from the 
product of which large quantities of excellent wine, in great variety, 
is manufactured and sold annually. 

The round trip to Geneva and return, with the several stops at 
picturesque landings, makes a voyage of over ninety miles. The 
beautiful city of Geneva, adorned by its abundant shade, broad 
avenues, numerous costly private homes and busy trading streets, has 
much to interest the traveler. The new Nester Hotel and the 
Kirkwood are the principal stopping places. Geneva is the seat of 
the New York State Agricultural Experiment Farm, open to all 
visitors, and also of Hobart College. The celebrated Geneva Mineral 
Springs are also an attraction. The great majority of visitors to 
Watkins Glen either arrive or depart by steamer. 



35 



ZU 6kn IDountain l>ou$e 



CHE pure air of this mountainous region has proved so conducive 
to health, and especially for nervo2isness and sleeplessness 
that the *' Glen Mountain House " (erected in 1872 at an 
elevation of 300 feet above the village), has been greatly 
enlarged, and its capacity so increased that 300 guests can be 
comfortably accommodated within its walls. It is lighted throughout 
with gas, possesses all the modern conveniences found in any first- 
class summer hotel, and is the only Hotel connected with, or in 
the immediate vicinity of Watkins Glen. 

Great attention has been paid to sanitary regulations; the drain- 
age is excellent; an abundance of pure spring water for all purposes; 
and everything in and about the house and grounds is kept scrupu- 
lously clean and neat. 

A pleasing and satisfactory feature connected with the romantic 
location of this hotel is, the novelty of situation of the dining-room, 
which is in a Swiss Chalet (such as is found among the^mountains, 
lakes and glens of Switzerland) across the Glen from the hotel, 
whereby all unpleasant odors arising from cooking, noise ' and con- 
fusion occasioned by servants, and heat from ranges and ovens, are 
wholly avoided, rendering the Glen Mountain House one of the 
most delightfully cool and pleasantly situated summer hotels in the 
United States. 

To protect guests from sun and storm, there is a beautiful and 
substantial (covered) iron bridge connecting the buildings. 

Among other important improvements, is a building apart from 
the hotel known as Amusement Hall, where music, dancing, and all 
rational amusements can be enjoyed, while those who desire rest and 
quiet are not disturbed. 

36 



Hundreds of visitors coming merely for a brief inspection of the 
glen, are charmed every season into a prolonged stay at the Glen 
Mountain House and many go but to return another year to enjoy 
the varied pleasures of this ideal place. 

Free admission to Watkins Glen is furnished to all who have 
ROOMS at the Gle.v Mountain House, only, enabling them to visit 
the " Glen." either upper or lower, at pleasure, without the fatigue 
occasioned by the necessity of doing the whole of it at one time, or 
going over the same ground twice. 

This '* SPECIAL PRIVILEGE " is only enjoyed by those above men- 
tioned. 

Proprietors of some of the village hotels advertise the same, 
but it is accomplished only at the expense of the guest. 

Omnibuses and easy-riding carriages are always in waiting to 
convey passengers to the Glen Mountain House. Guests are carried 
both ways free of charge when the stay is one or more days. 

Special rates made for parties ; beautifully illustrated circulars, 
and further information furnished upon application to the Proprietor. 

Address W. E. ROBINSON, 

Watkins, N. Y. 



Lehigh Valley Railroad 

TICKET OFFICES. 



NEW YORK— 355 Broadway. 

BROOKLYN— 328>^ Fulton Street 

NEWARK— 792 Broad Street 

PHILADELPHIA— 716 Chestnut Street; Reading Terminal, 12th 
and Market Streets ; N. E. Cor. 13th and Chestnut Streets. 

BUFFALO — 369 Main Street, corner Eagle Street. 

ROCHESTER— 13 East Main Street. 

CHICAGO— 218 South Clark Street. 

37 

Jnly-«.1Q01 



JUN 11 1901 




^k^mm^^ 



-%^.. 



5i..v_^ONofI901. 
Fifty Third Yeae 




THE CROSSMON, 
ALEXANDRIA BAY 
THOUSAND ISLANDS 



After a stay at Watkins Glen and the Expo- 
sition at Buffalo the well-posted traveler will next 
visit the peerless Thousand Islands. Through 
parlor and sleeping car trains to Clayton, connect- 
ing with steamer for Alexandria Bay. Baggage 
should be checked through to The Crossmon 



WRITE CHA5. W. CROSSnON, 

ALEXANDRIA BAY, N. Y., for hm^som^ 
free pamphlet and full In formation. 

38 



AMERICAN PRINTING HOUSE 
PHILADELPHIA, PA. 



